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Wine Spectator on Australia Wine QPR: “Punches Above Its Weight”

Read on with highlights from Old Bridge Cellars’-represented producers, including Penley, d’Arenberg and John Duval Wines.


“As Australia puts its better foot forward, this is the perfect time to point out that the country is punching above its weight when it comes to quality for the price. As a result, there is no reason to overlook the quality, commitment, passion and diversity of Australian wine, while also recognizing how competitive the country is in terms of value.” -MaryAnn Worobiec

Highlights Below

https://www.winespectator.com/articles/sure-bets-for-40-or-less-global-wine-values-022823

TASTING REPORTS

Sure Bets for $40 or Less

Great deals are in the cards as our editors stack the deck with values from around the world

From the Feb 28, 2023, issue

Our editors take the risk out of shopping for well-priced bottles, whether wines new to you or the latest vintages of names you know. In addition to our Top 10 Wine Values of 2022, look to this hand-picked compendium of recently reviewed wines from regions near and far to suit every palate and wallet.

two men standing next to a post
John Duval with son Tim (credit: Martin Ritzmann)

Australian Reds

A big payout awaits Down Under if you play your cards right

—MaryAnn Worobiec

There is so much to be impressed by when it comes to Australian wine. The passion and commitment of Aussie winemakers is always on display, as is the regional and stylistic diversity of the wines themselves. But what’s more unexpected is how high the quality is among the country’s value-priced bottlings.

Peaking about a decade ago, Australian wine in the U.S. seemed to be defined by cheap and cheerful quaffs, often with cartoon critters on the labels and typically selling for $10 or less. The market was flooded with these bottlings, which dominated the Australia section of wineshops.

Don’t get me wrong—there were some great bargains among them, and there’s a good reason why Yellow Tail was the most imported wine into the U.S. for a stretch (peaking at more than 8 million cases in 2010). These wines helped introduce Australia to U.S. consumers, but they set expectations for quality at a certain level.

Thankfully this trend has subsided. The biggest growth we’re seeing these days comes from wines carrying price tags of roughly $20 and higher—double the value of the market a decade ago. As Australia puts its better foot forward, this is the perfect time to point out that the country is punching above its weight when it comes to quality for the price.

As a result, there is no reason to overlook the quality, commitment, passion and diversity of Australian wine, while also recognizing how competitive the country is in terms of value. Some of the highest overachievers are the big reds for which Australia is known—Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon in particular.

Not surprisingly, two of the largest wine regions, McLaren Vale and Barossa, are strongly represented here. I’ve admired Barossa-based First Drop’s wines for a long time. The entire lineup is strong, but the Mother’s Milk bottling is a “slurpy” expression of Syrah (according to owner John Restas), an early drinker in a fun, screw cap bottle that consistently rates outstanding.

Another standout is Penley’s Cabernet Sauvignon Phoenix from Coonawarra, a haven for Cabernet that has a notably long, cool ripening season and low yields. A thread of terra rossa, or red soils, lies over a layer of soft limestone that runs 9 miles long by 1 mile wide through the heart of the region. The resulting wines are dense with dusty tannins and wonderful savory overtones, especially in the hands of Penley winemaker Kate Goodman, who uses low amounts of new oak to highlight the wines.


MaryAnn Worobiec’s Smart Buys in Australian Reds

Find from Old Bridge Cellars:
John Duval Shiraz Barossa Entity 2020 (94, $40)
Penley Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Phoenix 2020 (93, $20)
d’Arenberg Shiraz McLaren Vale The Stump Jump 2019 (90, $14)

Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin 28 2020 (94, $40)
First Drop Shiraz Barossa Mother’s Milk 2020 (92, $20)
Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale The Boxer 2020 (92, $30)
Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Gnarly Dudes 2021 (92, $33)
Pertaringa Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Understudy 2020 (91$25)
d’Arenberg Shiraz McLaren Vale The Stump Jump 2019 (90, $14)
Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier South Australia The Y Series 2020 (90, $15)
Thistledown Grenache South Australia Gorgeous 2020 (90, $18)…

Kristen Bieler’s Smart Buys in Global Riesling

Find from Old Bridge Cellars:
d’Arenberg The Stump Jump White McLaren Vale 2019 (89, $14)

Ravines Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2019 (92, $19)
S.A. Prüm Riesling Mosel Essence 2020 (91, $14)
Chateau Ste. Michelle-Dr. Loosen Riesling Columbia Valley Eroica 2020 (91, $20)
Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley Dry 2021 (90, $18)
August Kesseler Riesling Kabinett Rheingau R 2020 (90, $19)
Poet’s Leap Riesling Columbia Valley 2020 (90, $20)
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Mosel Noble House 2020 (89, $12)
Red Newt Cellars Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2018 (89, $20)
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley 2021 (88, $9)
Villa Wolf Riesling Dry Pfalz 2020 (88, $12)
Sokol Blosser Evolution Lucky No. 9 White Blend Columbia-Willamette Valleys 2020 (88, $15)
Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Seneca Lake Dry 2020 (88, $20)