Wine Review Online
Michael Apstein
October 8, 2013
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) ‘The Swinging Malaysian Shiraz ‘ 2010 – 95 pts
d’Arenberg has turned up the power here while simultaneously increasing the polish of this Shiraz. A luxurious wine, its suave texture is all the more impressive considering its power. A dense and dark earthy quality has replaced the flowery aspect found in their Laughing Magpie. A long and refined finish reinforces the wine’s elegance. I suspect it will develop beautifully providing even more enjoyment over the years, but it’s hard to resist now. This is cashmere.
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) ‘The Laughing Magpie Shiraz / Viognier’ 2009 – 92 pts
By blending a touch of Viognier with the Shiraz, d’Arenberg has created a more layered wine compared to their super-value The Stump Jump. Both flowery and gamey, it is balanced, not bombastic. A wonderful lifted quality prevents it from being ponderous. Subtle peppery notes stud its appealing texture. If The Stump Jump is wool, this one is a very fine lambswool.
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) ‘The Stump Jump Shiraz’ 2011 – 90 pts
Despite my lack of enthusiasm for the cutesy names the Australians attach to their wines, there is no overlooking the quality and value of this wine. It is a superb $13 Shiraz. Surprisingly for the price, it delivers more than just fruit flavors — there are subtle and intriguing gamey and savory notes. Not entirely polished, it has a charming rusticity compared to d’Arenberg’s other very fine Shiraz. Stock up on this for the cool weather ahead. It’s just what you need as the temperature drops and the hearty stews simmer on the stove.